I have had great love for the Kitschy Coo Lady Skater and have not bothered to hide it! I hadn’t made one since I lost weight and I had originally made some changes to the pattern to get a better fit, so I actually thought this might be a good time to find a different pattern for this simple dress silhouette to try out. But I actually couldn’t find another fit and flare knit dress that could be made with less than 2 yards.
So, I reprinted my beloved Lady Skater, which was the first PDF pattern I ever made, and realized how far along PDF patterns have come since that one! The pattern doesn’t have layers, which is fine because at least half the time I forget to go turn off the sizes I’m not cutting anyway. The pattern has no line distinction for the sizes and only uses different colored solid lines. I only have a black and white printer these days, so it was very obvious that the pattern isn’t great for printing in black and white. Luckily, the pattern is simple enough that it wasn’t actually a problem. But I did go over the size I wanted to cut out with a highlighter anyway, just to be sure.
My measurements fit squarely into the size 6. Previously, I made the size 8, which is the biggest size it comes in. The changes I made to that size 8 were: I took the shoulders in a bit, I raised the waistline by an inch and I did a small swayback adjustment. I compared the size 6 to the size 8 and the shoulders were not as wide as my adjusted size 8 shoulders and the waistline was the same as my adjusted waist on the size 8. So, I decided to just make the size 6 once as is and do all the fitting over again.
I added pockets, using the Colette Moneta pocket piece placed 4″ from the top of the skirt pieces. Because, of course all dresses should have pockets!
The fitting changes I want to make to my next version:
Do you have any patterns that are worth starting over with?
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I had visions of what I wanted to make and was planning on using the Colette Moneta. But, as it turns out, I only had one yard each of those two cotton lycra fabrics, which isn’t quite enough for the Moneta. So, I decided to colorblock a Seamwork Mesa again and created a sketch of what I was envisioning.
Once I had a sketch that I liked, I basically just followed the same steps I did for my rainbow Mesa a couple years ago. The main difference in my process this time is that after I printed out two copies of the front dress piece, and taped it all together to make the full front piece, instead of cutting up that piece, I just drew in the lines I wanted for my two sections and I traced each piece onto Swedish tracing paper, then added the seam allowances. That way I still have that full sized front piece to use for the next time I color block the Mesa. (Spoiler alert: I already have the next one planned and sketched out.)
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| Ripley loves to help! |
I cut a neckline band out of the blue and white, but then thought it might look cuter with a red and while one, so I laid it out to see and decided that was the way to go.
I also usually put bands on my sleeves too, so I just made them opposite on each sleeve too. I really love how the dress turned out. I was a bit concerned that the “waving” line would be hard to get to lie flat, but I didn’t have any problems with that at all.
I managed to get the stripes to line up pretty well on the left side. The right side, not so much, but it’s the shorter seamline for the stripes, so it’s not all that noticeable and I’m not concerned about it.
I like that I can just cut out each piece double with this pattern to make the front and the back of the dress without needing to modify each pattern piece separately.
We didn’t leave the house, other than to take these photos on the actual 4th of July. But I went to my party on the 5th and got a ton of compliments. I like the way this dress turned out and I’m glad I finally have a patriotic outfit to wear for when the occasion calls for it.
I have a special place in my heart for the By Hand London Anna. First of all, my daughter’s name is Anna, so that alone would make me interested in taking a look at anything named after her. Plus, when it first came out, all the photos I saw were stunning. I’ve made 3 versions already and I was incredibly pleased with each one. So, when I needed a formal gown and didn’t have a ton of time to mess with fitting, I decided to go back to my beloved Anna since already I knew the pattern pretty well. I wanted to add some extra drama, and I sketched up a couple quick silhouette options, including one with a neckline capelet and had decided to go that route.
Previously, I had to grade up a size to a ~US 18 and I didn’t bother doing any other fit alterations. But I’ve lost a significant amount of weight since I last made an Anna, so this time around, I decided to make a size US 14 with a 3″ FBA. I read up quite a bit on other ladies’ experience with doing an FBA on Anna and decided to not do it the way the BHL blog recommends, since I was adding a large amount. I just used the normal Y method that I usually use, then rotated the dart and absorbed it into the two pleats, trying to distribute it equally. It’s very hacky looking, but here’s what the finished piece ended up looking like.
This dress was going to be for the awards dinner of a dance event and it is always a formal evening with a theme and this time the theme was Viva Las Vegas. I had this periwinkle/black/white shimmery animal print crinkle chiffon fabric that was gorgeous and just screamed Vegas to me. So, I decided I had to go with it.
I thought the shiny side would feel nice against my skin, so I put the fabrics wrong sides together and I cut them together and cut a single layer — not on the fold. I also hand basted the fabrics together to keep the chiffon from shifting around too much and I’m really glad I took the extra effort to do so. It made it so much easier once I started sewing all those skirt pieces together! I made cut and sewed up the bodice first and I finished the arm holes with black packaged bias binding, hand stitching it to the underlining layer only, instead of turning and sewing the edges in place as the instructions direct. This is the first time I’ve done it this way, because I usually line my Anna bodice and I also have always added sleeves before, but I really like how clean this method came out.
After I made up the bodice, with the neckline unfinished, waiting for the capelet, I put it on my dressform and was looking at it sitting there, already second guessing my plan. I was chatting with a friend/coworker who was working late out of town and sent some photos, she didn’t agree with my plan either, so I started thinking of other ways I could add some extra drama to the dress. I started thinking about cutting a V back and draping some long flaps from the V to create a little back cape thing (yes, I REALLY want a dress with a cape of some sort!!) and so I unpinned the back of the bodice to see what it would look like with a V back….
…and the fun side effect of underlining my dress with the shiny side of the charmeuse on the inside meant that the good side showed in the flap that folded out once I unpinned the back. I LOVED IT! So I ran with it. I took out the basting stitches and stitched the two layers together on those edges right sides together and pressed. I finished the skirt, attached it, inserted a shorter zipper and figured out where to insert it where it would cover up my normal bra. I somehow misjudged and had to improvise, because by this time, I was running out of time before I had to pack it up to go to my event and there was no way I was going to unzip that invisible zipper. So I found 3 big, shiny black buttons and added them so that I could close the V a little higher than the zipper did, just to cover up my bra. The top one is the only one that actually does any real work. The other two are only for show. They get a little lost in the pattern, so now that my event is over, I might make some sort of change there. Either use different buttons that stand out more or redo the zipper to be about an inch higher, I’m not sure yet.
But with no further ado, here are the professional photos that I conned the amazing Heather from Maude Productions to take special for me.
This is a post that was originally published on The Monthly Stitch on September 25, 2018, but since then, I modeled this dress in the American Sewing Guild‘s fashion show at the Sewing & Stitchery Expo and here is a video:
Oh hey! It’s been a while. I have actually been sewing all this time since that last post. I’ve even been occasionally posting my makes over on Instagram. But I miss having a nice write up on my work that I go back to look at, so I decided to dust off the ol’ blog and start posting again.
I am a programmer, not a graphic designer, and I have never really been happy with the look of my blog. So I’ve been changing it up over the past couple of weeks in anticipation of getting back into actually using it again. I am liking this look much better, but there are still things I’m not happy about and I will still be doing more work to improve the look and functionality. Please leave a comment if something doesn’t work right (and what device/browser you are using) or if you just have any suggestions or feedback.
I haven’t posted in a while, mostly because I haven’t really made much that I’m super proud of. Since my last post I made another Blackwood Cardigan just like my blue one but this time in a lovely mango sophia double knit that I picked up from the sewing expo. I do love that sweater and both of my Blackwoods get heavy rotation in my wardrobe and will likely be seen in my MMM photos this year. (In fact, I’m wearing my blue one today.)
I also managed to throw together a couple costume pieces that I’m definitely not proud of, but got the job done. And as it would be I don’t have any photos of either costume, but I do have this video of my Ursula dance wearing a dress I put together using the Jalie Bella dress pattern.
I took out a lot of width in the skirt flares and just didn’t sew the panels all the way to the bottom to make the panels somewhat resemble tentacles. I cut two of the center front panel, adding a seam allowance, and hacked it into a sweetheart neckline with a purple netting at the neckline and sleeves. I hacked this together quickly the day of the event and I didn’t finish the edges, so the netting at the neckline has all run. I also split the center back panel so that I could add a zipper to the back. This dress uses the leotard from the same pattern so that I don’t have to wear separate dance pants.
Now for the main topic of my post today. Me Made May 2017! I signed up with a realistic pledge a while ago, and, of course, I hoped (and still do) that I’ll be able to make and/or alter some items to fill in where my wardrobe is lacking this month. But here is the pledge I made:
So that’s my pledge. I’m going to do the best I can. I have a few dresses that still look ok on me — my Monetas and my Wrens. I made my first Wren knowing that I was going to be losing a lot of weight, so I intentionally made it a size smaller than I would have otherwise at the time, so that helped. And I think the Monetas just were snug enough that they just are a little loose now.
Here’s a photo of what I wore yesterday on May 1. It’s the first Kitschy Coo Lady Skater that I made. A wearable muslin. I took a relaxation day after my dance competition last weekend, so I was just lazying around the house and running errands, so I didn’t mind that it was fairly loose on me.
And this is today. A Moneta and my blue Blackwood.
I will be back to document more me-made outfits soon.
Are you participating in MMM’17?
The Blackwood Cardigan pattern is 20% off for the first week, so go pick it up. But hurry, because the sale ends March 6th.
I decided to wait until 2016 was actually over before posting my Top 5 of 2016. But I’ve been compiling it for a while. So, with no further ado, here it is.
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| I love the movement of that fringe! |
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| March 31, 2016 | Dec. 20, 2016 |
| Birthday Dress! Dec. 7, 2016 |
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| This blouse just didn’t turn out great and it photographed even worse! |
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| The gray fabric just looked terrible. |
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| Terrible things are happening in the crotch area.. |
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| Dec. 31, 2015
Jan. 5, 2017
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| View from the top of the Columbia Tower after walking up 69 flights of stairs! |
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| Jumping over fire! |
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| A nice, relaxing swim through very thick mud. |
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| My husband and I straight out of the mud pit. |
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| My husband and I after we cleaned up a bit with our cool souvenir hats on. |
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| My future sewing room! |
Wow, this post is more overdue than I realized! The Fabric Mart Fashionista Fashion Challenge 4 is over and the winner was announced way back on Oct. 11. Congratulations to the very lovely Tee from Maggie Elaine, who won with this gorgeous ensemble inspired by Dolce and Gabbana’s Fall/Winter 2016 collection.
Gillian Conahan, the Editor in Chief of Vogue Patterns magazine
The tank and cardigan coordinate well with the skirt, fit and drape beautifully, and look very comfortable and wearable. They’re simple pieces, but well done, and they look great on you. It looks like the hems could have been a bit better stabilized to prevent tunneling, or the machine settings adjusted.
Brave of you to work with such a tricky fabric for the other top! The fit looks pretty good, perhaps a bit snug across the shoulders in back. I’m not sure the satin fabric is the best choice for those gathers on the shoulders and sleeves – the stiffness makes them look a little messy, though the lighting is also extremely unforgiving. The lapels look like they need a little more pressing to make sure the edge is crisp and the seam rolls nicely to the underside, or maybe edgestitching if the fabric doesn’t hold a crease well.
Penny Payne, the Fabric & Notions Editor for the McCall Pattern Company:
It was hard to see the details without some close-up photos…It seems like the colors probably match quite well to the plaid in the skirt.
Cardigan and Tank Top: One of these without the other would not have presented a finished look, so I am glad you made both! The swing jacket looks great on you. You should make this a staple in your wardrobe, in assorted colors. Quite polished. Satin
Jacket-top: The satin seems soft and can be tough for even the most experience Seventh Avenue seamstress – without adding interlinings, etc..to get at least some crispness at the hems.
Julie from Fabric Mart:
The cardigan and tank set look great. The fit is nicely done and drapes well too. I could see them worn together or separate and with the skirt or with other things you may have in your closet. Burgundy is so in right now, and you’re all set! It’s a bummer the lace top didn’t work out. I would have loved to see it. The blazer was a good idea, but I don’t think it turned out as well as it could have. I think some facings, interfacing, etc would have helped it, but the fabric was a tricky one. I think a different fabric would have worked a little better. It would be nice to see it in natural light since the shine in the photos brings more attention to the wrinkles.
All in all, it was a really great (and stressful!) experience to be a participant in this challenge. I definitely have a whole new respect for the designers on Project Runway who do so much more in much less time that I had. And I was happy to actually get some sleep the weekend after my elimination.
I do plan to go back and revisit my trench coat. I had to leave off the epaulettes and the cuff straps due to time restraints and I didn’t top stitch the lapels at all and had to stop top stitching the belt because I ran out of the thread color I was using, which I have since re-aquired. I also will add some frog closures and I’ve decided I would like to add a hem band of the blue sateen at the bottom to add a little length and balance out the blue at the collar/lapels. I just have a few other projects that have higher priority at the moment.
I have barely been at my sewing machine since my elimination — the only project I worked on was a Good-To-Go Messenger Bag from Two Pretty Poppets with my 8 year old neice, who was in town last weekend with her family visiting us. Of course, I didn’t even think to take photos, but we made the small version out of these fabrics she picked out at JoAnn.
I love her fabric selection and I love how the bag turned out. It was a quick make, even spending a lot of extra time showing an 8 year old how to use a sewing machine.
My current project that I’ve only barely started is my Halloween costume. I can’t share my plans yet. We have a themed decorating contest between the floors in our building and it’s a carefully guarded secret what our theme is and I know at least one person from another floor who very well might read this blog. But I shared this photo on Instagram.
And after my Halloween costume is done, I’ll be starting on a Named Olivia Jersey Wrap Dress, which I picked up as part of The Monthly Stitch’s IPM Pattern Bundle 01. I’m very excited to try out the pattern and I have a few slightly flawed knits I’ve picked up from Girl Charlee’s bargain lots* to choose from as my (hopefully wearable) muslin. I think I’m going to use this one.
Hopefully I’ll get my costume completed in time for our contest on Friday and I’ll be able to post about it next weekend.
*Disclaimer on Girl Charlee’s “slightly flawed” lots — I’ve purchased many of them because they are inexpensive fabrics that are often very pretty and only have slight flaws along the selvege or small things that can be cut around, so they are great for wearable muslins. But I’ve had terrible luck with the woven bargain fabrics I’ve purchased and I’ve gotten a couple things that are completely unusable and all sales are final.
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